Surcoat (Jinbaori)
Date: 17th century
Geography: Kyoto
Culture: Japanese
Medium: Silk, felt, metallic thread, wood, lacquer
Surcoat (Jinbaori)
Date: early–mid-19th century
Culture: Japanese
Medium: Wool (rasha), silk, crepe
(Source: metmuseum.org)
Horse Wrapping Cloth (Japan), late 18th century; bast fiber, probably hemp; H x W: 478.8 x 64.8 cm (15 ft. 8 ½ in. x 25 ½ in.); Museum purchase from The Grodzins Fund for Textile Acquisition; 2001-2-1
(Source: collection.cooperhewitt.org)
Woman’s painted haori (jacket). Late Meiji period(1890-1912). An extraordinary woman’s silk haori featuring good luck symbols created utilizing yuzen and freehand painting, with embroidery highlights. 50" from sleeve-end to sleeve-end x 31" height. Huge auspicious motifs arranged closely together, some superimposed over others, resulting in a bold graphic powerful statement. All the motifs can be grouped in to what the Japanese refer to as ‘takara-zukushi’ (all kinds of treasures). The treasures that we can identify include ‘kakuregasa’ (hat of invisibility); 'tsuchi’ (mallet, which when struck grants all the bearer’s wishes); 'magatama’ (ancient curved bead); 'nunobukuro’ (bag of unlimited wealth); 'chouji’ (cloves); 'makimono’ (scrolls of wisdom and longevity); and 'shippo’ ( overlapping circles). The 'shippo’ seven-treasures design appeared in the late Heian period as an abstraction from a large overall pattern of overlapping circles, the overlap being exactly equal on all four sides. The seven treasures are gold, silver, crystal coral, agate, pearl and lapis lazuli. Symbols of wealth, prosperity and longevity, treasures like these were first used in designs for clothing during the Muromachi era to bring good fortune to the wearer. The original “treasures” came to Japan as Buddhist teachings from India and China but later became more secular in tone. The Kimono Gallery
Textile Hanging with Ho-o Bird. Japan. 1895-1910. Embroidered silk, 20th century border with woven silk. 271 x 218 cm (overall); 230 x 174 cm (excluding border). Around 1900, a number of Kyoto factories, especially that of Kawashima Jinbei, produced large textile hangings inspired by the European custom of decorating formal rooms with large tapestries. The main subject matter of this embroidery, a ho-o bird, is seen on late sixteenth-century Japanese screens made for the interiors of palaces and castles. At that time, the ho-o was favoured as a motif because in early Chinese writings its appearance is said to herald the arrival of a virtuous monarch. This hanging thus combines elements of both European and Japanese elite interior design of the sixteenth century, but with a distinctly early twentieth-century mode of expression. Text and image via Khalili Collection
(Source: khalilicollections.org)
Karaori (Noh Costume), Edo period (1615-1868), 1775/1825
Gift of The School of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1935.9
(Source: artic.edu)
Fukusa (Gift Cover)
Japan, Appliqued fabric: Edo period (1615-1868), late 18th century; Mounting fabric: Meiji period (1868-1912), 1868/83
Patterned side: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave self-pattered by areas of weft-float faced 1:3 ‘Z’ twill interlacings; appliquéd with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip wrapped silk in surface satin stitches; laid work and couching; lined with silk, plain weave with creped wefts (chirimen) (possibly dyed with safflower (beni); interlined with cotton, plain weave; sewn with padded lining extending beyond front at center on all four sides (Yatsuzuma); silk, running “controlling” stitches along all edges; silk, knotted, cut fringe tassels
Esattamente un anno fa ero a Tokyo.
Me ne rimangono ricordi bellissimi e un’agendina piena di disegni e appunti di viaggio.
Exactly one year ago I was in Tokyo. There are beautiful memories left and a diary full of drawings and travel notes.






